![]() ![]() If you assume there's not a cliff to walk off, which is a safe assumption with a solar panel, you don't need nearly as robust of an MPPT design. It's usually MPPT where you'll find the limits of doing this. In this case substituting a power supply for a solar panel into a controller might demonstrate where assumptions made are not capable. In the design of power supplies and solar controllers assumptions are made about the nature of their upstream input sources and downstream loads. In particular notice how the PV power forms a distinct peak that falls off both sides. The PV power will be a function of voltage and current and neither of them are fully constant (current is practically up to MPP at least). If you ask it for more than 6A the voltage drops and you can't ever get more than 14V but is constant under 6A. The power supply in this case would be rated The solar panel would be Isc=6.5A, Voc=17.1V and how a power supply reacts, it's always got 85W (or 14V and 6A) available until it doesn't. These are just hasty example ideal sources, both being theoretical 85W sources. It looks complicated but its easy to build and works great.Ĭlick to expand.A power supply doesn't have the same characteristics as a solar panel. With the volt/amp meter you can tell at realtime when the battery is almost full, when the charge amps drop to about 100ma. This is a cc/cv charger so it will give your lead acid a good charge, I also use to charge my 12.6 li-ion an 14.6 lifepo4. The boost and bucks each cost about 8 dollars, and I also use a volt/amp meter (5 dollars) to monitor voltage/amps. Just make sure you use a cooling fan, the converters get hot. If you try to just use a boost or buck by itself, you won't get max amps, the input/output voltages will be too close together to get max amps. ![]() ![]() Using the boost/buck together you will get the max amps possible. You need the boost converter to increase the 12 or 14 volt to 18 volt, then you need a buck converter to drop the 18 volt to 14.4 volt or whatever you need. Thats how I charge from 12 volt to 12 volt. It's used to keep things like wheelchairs charged when carried in mobility vans.įor something like what you want to do, you need a boost buck converter. If you want something less expensive than the full-on dual battery systems but still task specific Optimate makes a small DC-DC charger that is suited for things like this. But for 18 A-hr you don't need much either so CV/CC is acceptable and will probably get you mostly back in a couple of hours driving. They have a habit of not being exactly high quality and you won't get a multi-step profile. So in either case one of those CV/CC Amazon Chinese buck/boost regulators might be fine, in theory. Strictly speaking a resistor and a fuse would be all you'd need.įor a gel you'd need to buck the voltage down, they can't tolerate the relatively high voltage of flooded/AGM. If it's not a gel type your vehicle already has a charging system that you could almost just plug it into the cigarette lighter but you'd want to current limit, both to safely charge and to prevent melting the outlet. Is the battery a gel (like for a UPS or something) or a maintenance-free SLA/AGM type? NL5 Intelligent Charger port (charger available separately)Ĭlick here to view the Brochure SPECIFICATIONS.2 x DC Sockets standard (1 x Cigar, 1 x Hella).This product is not a dual battery system and additional systems might be required. The box can fit up to a 120 amp/hour battery and additional output ports can be added as required. The 12V Auxiliary Battery Box design makes it perfect for saving space in your caravan, 4WD, or even a boat, with plenty of charging alternatives to ensure you can power just about anything you need on your trip whether it’s simply running your campsite lights or mounted in your caravan, 4WD, or even a boat. ![]()
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